On the shores of Costa de Pajaros, a small fishing village in Costa Rica, two women are hard at work transforming the day’s catch into something far more than dinner. While their husbands bring in fish from the sea, Mauren Castro, 41, and Marta Sosa, 70, are busy scraping, washing, and tanning the skins of sea bass, turning what was once waste into leather for sustainable fashion. Welcome to Piel Marina (Marine Skin), a female-led cooperative that’s revolutionizing the use of fish skins for leather goods.
From Stay-at-Home Moms to Entrepreneurs
Just two years ago, Castro and Sosa were stay-at-home moms, reliant on their fisherman husbands to support their families. Castro, a mother of four, and Sosa, a mother of six, had no idea that their lives were about to change when the NGO MarViva introduced them to the idea of fish tanning. They were among the first 15 women trained by MarViva to become professional tanners along Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, and today, they are the heart and soul of Piel Marina.
The concept seemed strange at first. “We said, ‘how can a skin, which is something that gets smelly, which is waste, be the raw material for women to be able to get ahead?’” Castro admitted. But with training, practice, and perseverance, these women honed their skills, and now they are helping to supplement their families’ incomes while creating sustainable fashion products.
The Process: Turning Fish Skins into Leather
The process of turning sea bass skins into leather is both simple and labor-intensive. First, the skins are thoroughly rubbed and cleaned to remove any scales or remaining flesh. “Then we take it and wash it with soap, as if we were washing clothes,” Sosa explained. The next step involves dyeing the skins with glycerin, alcohol, and natural dyes, followed by laying them out to dry under the sun. It takes four days for the dye to settle and another four days for the leather to fully dry, resulting in a soft, pliable, and waterproof fabric.
One of the most remarkable features of fish leather is that it no longer carries the smell of fish once the process is complete. The result is a strong, durable material perfect for crafting earrings, necklaces, handbags, and other fashionable items.
Sustainable Fashion and Cultural Heritage
Costa Rica is just the latest country to tap into the potential of fish leather, a practice that has deep roots in Indigenous cultures from around the world. In Alaska, Scandinavia, Japan, and Canada, Indigenous peoples have been using fish skins for centuries to create clothing and other essentials. Today, the trend is catching on globally, with fish leather products selling for hundreds of dollars online.
The Piel Marina cooperative is part of a broader movement to promote sustainable fashion by reducing waste and creating products that are eco-friendly. The fish skins they use would otherwise be discarded at sea, adding to the environmental impact of fishing. Instead, these skins are being repurposed into high-quality leather, providing a sustainable alternative to traditional leather, which often relies on more environmentally harmful practices.
The women of Piel Marina are not just tanners; they are also jewelry designers. They’ve taken their trade one step further by crafting earrings, necklaces, and other accessories, which they sell on social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook. A pair of butterfly-shaped earrings, for example, costs around seven dollars—a small price for a handmade piece of art that helps support local families.
A Boost to Local Economies
Fishing has long been the economic lifeblood of Costa de Pajaros, a village located about 62 miles west of Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose. However, new fishing regulations aimed at preserving fish stocks, including a fishing ban from May to July, have made it harder for fishermen to make ends meet. The creation of Piel Marina has provided an alternative source of income for families who have relied on fishing for generations.
In addition to selling jewelry, the women also sell fish leather to small-scale textile producers in Puntarenas, Costa Rica’s main Pacific port. This has opened up new opportunities for local artisans and small businesses, further boosting the regional economy.
Fish Leather in the Global Fashion Scene
While Piel Marina is still in its early stages, fish leather is no stranger to the fashion world. In fact, some of the biggest names in fashion have already embraced it. John Galliano, former creative director at Dior, famously donned an Atlantic salmon skin jacket in his 2002 collection, proving that fish leather can make a splash in high fashion.
Fish leather is now being used worldwide, from tilapia leather handbags in Kenya to pirarucu leather in Brazil. It’s clear that the potential of fish skins is vast, and the women of Piel Marina have dreams of seeing their creations strut the global stage. As Castro herself puts it, “I would like it to be seen in Hollywood, in Canada or on the great catwalks in Paris!”
A Sustainable Future for Costa Rica’s Fisherwomen
The story of Piel Marina is about more than fashion—it’s about empowerment, sustainability, and innovation. The cooperative has given these women not only a source of income but also a sense of pride and independence. For many, working as part of Piel Marina offers an escape from traditional domestic roles and a chance to contribute meaningfully to their families’ livelihoods.
With growing awareness of the need for sustainable alternatives in the fashion industry, Piel Marina has the potential to expand and thrive. As demand for eco-friendly products increases, the cooperative is well-positioned to become a leader in the niche market of fish leather fashion.
A New Frontier in Sustainable Fashion
Piel Marina is a shining example of how innovation and sustainability can go hand in hand. By turning what was once waste into a valuable resource, these Costa Rican women are not only preserving the environment but also creating opportunities for themselves and their communities. Their journey from skeptical homemakers to skilled artisans is a testament to the power of determination and creativity.
As the world looks for ways to reduce waste and embrace eco-friendly practices, the success of Piel Marina offers a model for sustainable economic development. Who knows—perhaps one day, we’ll see fish leather handbags and accessories from Costa Rica on the runways of Paris and Hollywood.
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