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Is Paradise in Peril? – The Costa Rican Times

Costa Rica, long celebrated for its stunning beaches, lush jungles, and “Pura Vida” lifestyle, is facing a growing crisis that threatens the nation’s peace and reputation as a tourist paradise. While tourism has steadily risen since the end of the COVID-19 pandemic, crime rates in the country are skyrocketing, fueled by drug trafficking, gang violence, and migration pressures. As Costa Rica grapples with these issues, questions about its future as a safe destination for visitors and investors loom large.

A Tourism Hotspot Under Threat

Costa Rica welcomed 2.7 million tourists in 2023, according to the country’s Tourism Institute (ICT). Visitors flocked to the country’s pristine beaches, verdant rainforests, and towering volcanoes. Tourism, the lifeblood of the Costa Rican economy, continues to rebound after the devastating impact of the global pandemic. However, this growth may be in jeopardy as a wave of violence and crime shakes the foundation of the country’s “Pura Vida” image.

At the heart of the issue is a sharp rise in narcotrafficking, leading to a surge in violent crime. According to Costa Rica’s Judicial Investigation agency (OIJ), 2023 was the most violent year in the country’s history, with over 900 homicides, the majority attributed to drug cartels. The situation is compounded by unprecedented levels of migration and rising inequality, all while an understaffed police force struggles to keep up.

Drug Trade and Crime

Much of the blame for Costa Rica’s spiraling crime rate lies in the nation’s increasing role as a hub for drug trafficking. The country’s strategic location between South America and North America, coupled with its extensive coastlines, makes it a prime target for international drug cartels. In fact, Costa Rica has become a key transshipment point for cocaine heading to both the United States and Europe.

The drop in the price of cocaine, as explained by Randall Zúñiga, director of the OIJ, has also fueled local consumption. What once cost $7,000 per kilo now costs around $3,500, leading to an increase in domestic drug use, particularly of crack cocaine. This influx of drugs has led to violent turf wars between local and international cartels, with devastating consequences for public safety.

According to Mario Zamora, director of the Ministry of Public Safety, these murders primarily occur in impoverished neighborhoods where drug markets are strong. “Costa Rica has been an extremely peaceful country, without an army since 1949,” Zamora said, “but now, drug-related violence threatens not only public safety but the two pillars of our economy—tourism and foreign investment.”

The Impact on Tourism and the Economy

For years, Costa Rica’s tourism industry has been a driving force behind the nation’s economic growth. According to Esteban Rojas, a tour guide with over 15 years of experience, tourism is woven into the fabric of Costa Rican society. “It’s a chain reaction,” Rojas said. “When tourists come, they stimulate local businesses—hotels, restaurants, transport services, and even small industries like nail salons benefit.”

In 2023, the tourism sector directly employed 163,000 people, making up 7.1% of the country’s labor force. When factoring in indirect employment, such as those supplying goods and services to tourism businesses, the number jumps to nearly 490,000, or 21.3% of the workforce.

But rising crime threatens this vital industry. Regions like Jacó, once a favored destination for tourists due to its proximity to the Central Valley, have seen an alarming rise in violent crime. According to official data from the OIJ, Jacó de Garabito reported the highest rate of crimes against tourists between 2021 and 2023.

“The crime rate in Jacó has changed the town,” said Leonidas Ruaro, president and founder of the nonprofit organization Pura Vida Fighting for Kids. “We’ve never had this kind of fear before. But now there’s a wave of gang violence, and it’s affecting everything, including tourism.”

How Did We Get Here?

Several factors have contributed to Costa Rica’s current security challenges. The country has long been a stopover point for South American cocaine en route to the United States and Europe. In recent years, however, drug traffickers have started paying local cartels in cocaine rather than cash, flooding the domestic market with drugs. As more drugs enter the country, gangs have expanded their control over territories, resulting in increased violence as they fight for dominance.

Additionally, the global pandemic led to significant economic strain, exacerbating inequality and driving many young people into criminal organizations. With limited educational opportunities and high unemployment, many youths have turned to gang life as an alternative.

Zúñiga noted that “many young people dropped out of school during the pandemic and are now easy targets for recruitment by criminal organizations.” This shift, combined with migration from neighboring countries like Nicaragua and Venezuela, has fueled a perception that foreigners are bringing more crime into the country.

The Government’s Response

The Costa Rican government is aware of the growing crime wave and is taking steps to address it. In 2023, the budget for the Ministry of Public Security grew by $40 million, which funded the hiring of 1,500 additional police officers. This expansion, while necessary, barely scratches the surface of what is needed. According to Zúñiga, the country is short by about 5,000 police officers, leaving vast areas of the country vulnerable to organized crime.

Brunner, one of Costa Rica’s vice presidents, expressed skepticism about the effectiveness of adding more police officers alone. “It won’t help because these gangs now operate in broad daylight, even near police stations,” Brunner said. “Our laws are too lenient for the type of organized crime we’re facing. Foreign assassins view our system as a paradise.”

As part of its broader strategy, the Costa Rican government is also installing cargo drug scanners in its ports, including the commercial port of Moín, a major hub for cocaine smuggling. Four scanners were donated by the U.S. in 2024, alongside $40.5 million in security assistance. While this may help curb some of the trafficking, criminals are increasingly turning to creative methods to circumvent detection, from smashing scanners to using submersibles.

Community-Level Solutions

Local communities are also stepping up to address the surge in violence. Programs like Pura Vida Fighting for Kids, which offers free Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu and yoga classes to at-risk youth, provide a positive alternative to gang life. “We give kids a safe space where they feel valued,” Ruaro said. “It’s more than just teaching martial arts—it’s about keeping them off the streets and away from the temptation of crime.”

Despite the growing crime rate, Ruaro and others believe there is still hope. “We need both an iron fist and programs that give kids opportunities to succeed,” he said. “The more good spaces we create in our communities, the less power gangs will have.”

Crime’s Threat to Costa Rica’s Image

Costa Rica’s reputation as a peaceful, eco-friendly haven has drawn millions of tourists and investors over the years. However, the rise in violent crime is jeopardizing this carefully cultivated image. “Costa Rica is like a luxury brand,” Rojas explained. “People associate it with eco-tourism and Pura Vida. But if crime continues to rise, we risk losing that.”

According to the OIJ, the highest rates of crime against foreigners were reported in popular tourist destinations like Jacó and Quepos. Criminal organizations in these areas have even started using Airbnb cleaning staff to gather information about when houses are occupied by tourists, further eroding the sense of security.

The Road Ahead

Costa Rica faces a delicate balancing act. The country must address the crime wave sweeping its cities and tourist hotspots without undermining the very qualities that make it so attractive to visitors and investors. The government’s focus on increasing police presence and cracking down on organized crime is a necessary first step, but it must be complemented by community-based initiatives and a stronger focus on sustainable development.

As Costa Rica navigates these challenges, one thing is clear: the country’s future as a top tourist destination depends on its ability to tackle crime head-on while preserving its cherished “Pura Vida” lifestyle.

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