Costa Rica, a country known for its lush landscapes, tropical beaches, and vibrant culture, offers one more thing for visitors and residents alike: a driving experience that can test anyone’s patience and nerves. Whether you’re a seasoned local or a first-time visitor, the roads here are an adventure unto themselves.
Driving in Costa Rica has always been a hot topic, sparking countless debates, and it’s easy to see why. In fact, 25 years ago, Teletica, Costa Rica’s most-watched TV channel, asked a simple question in a viewer poll: “Are Costa Ricans good drivers?” The response was overwhelming—96% of respondents said no. Keep in mind, this was a poll answered almost exclusively by Costa Ricans themselves. Fast forward to today, with triple the number of drivers on the road, and the question still lingers: Are drivers in Costa Rica any better now?
A New Generation of Drivers
In many ways, Costa Rica today is like the U.S. in the 1950s and ’60s—a time when the availability of cars exploded, and driving became a common experience for the first time. Costa Rica’s road infrastructure has improved dramatically over the last two decades, but with the influx of new drivers, the dynamics of the driving experience have changed as well.
While I would argue that drivers today are somewhat better than they were 25 years ago, the fact remains: Costa Rican roads are still filled with questionably trained drivers making questionable decisions at inopportune times. Add in the constant presence of pedestrians and cyclists who seem to be in their own world, and you’ve got a recipe for chaos.
Having recently driven 12 hours straight through Costa Rica—navigating urban centers, coastal highways, mountain roads, and even some rivers—I had ample time to reflect on the peculiarities of driving here. During my journey, I encountered numerous examples of head-scratching driving behavior, which led me to the idea of creating a “Driving in Costa Rica Bingo Card.”
The Driving in Costa Rica Bingo Card
The next time you embark on a long drive through this beautiful country, see how many of the following scenarios you can check off your bingo card:
1. Dangerously Courteous Drivers:
You’ve got the right of way, but some overly courteous driver decides to stop in the middle of a busy street to let another car turn left or allow a distracted pedestrian to cross. Nice gesture, terrible timing.
2. Mr. Brightlights:
He’s driving at night with his high beams on, regardless of whether he’s on a deserted road or a busy highway. Bonus points if he has extra fog lights or grille lights that make him look like a spaceship coming straight at you.
3. Motorcycle Messengers Splitting Lanes:
They zip through traffic, splitting lanes and changing lanes unpredictably. If you’re lucky, they’re not also delivering a side of road rage.
4. Slow and Steady Motorcycle Riders:
On the flip side, you’ve got the motorcyclist who’s riding at a leisurely 40 km/h in the middle of the lane, blocking everyone behind them.
5. Bicyclists Hogging the Road:
What’s worse than a slow motorbike? Two cyclists riding side by side at 20 km/h, taking up the entire lane as if they’re in their own personal Tour de Costa Rica.
6. Smoke-Belching Vehicles:
You find yourself stuck behind a truck or car emitting enough smoke to make you question how they passed vehicle inspection. Hint: they probably didn’t.
7. Overuse of Hazard Lights:
These drivers hit the hazard lights every time they brake quickly, whether necessary or not. The best part? They forget to turn them off and drive with flashing lights for miles.
8. Distracted Drivers on Cell Phones:
One hand on the wheel, one hand holding a cell phone. If they’re texting while driving, the level of danger rises exponentially.
9. Big Car, Lousy Driver:
Nothing says “road hog” like a gleaming, oversized SUV being driven by someone who goes 20 km/h below the speed limit while drifting just enough to prevent anyone from passing.
10. Horn-Happy Drivers:
In San José, if you haven’t moved the second the light turns green, rest assured someone will let you know by laying on their horn. Patience is not their strong suit.
11. Pedestrians Playing Chicken:
Pedestrians in Costa Rica seem to have a sixth sense for crossing the road right when the light turns green for cars. They step into traffic like it’s a game of chicken, daring you to stop.
12. Tailgaters:
Tailgating here isn’t always about aggression—it’s often just poor driving. Whether you’re going 50 or 100 km/h, someone’s bound to be riding your bumper.
13. Slow-Moving Vehicles on Steep Hills:
Nothing beats getting stuck behind a heavy truck crawling up a steep mountain road, refusing to pull over despite multiple opportunities. The descent is just as bad.
14. The Ultimate: Transitos Making Traffic Worse:
For the center square in our bingo card, we have the infamous Transitos, Costa Rica’s traffic officers. While they’re tasked with easing traffic at busy intersections, their presence often turns a manageable jam into a full-blown gridlock.
The Evolution of Costa Rican Roads
Despite all the quirks of driving in Costa Rica, it’s important to remember that the country is still transitioning into a car-centric society. The roads are improving, and there are more drivers than ever before, but it’s going to take some time for the driving culture to catch up. Meanwhile, visitors and locals alike must contend with the realities of daily driving in Costa Rica.
There’s something almost endearing about the unpredictability of it all. Sure, it’s frustrating when someone stops in the middle of the road for no reason or when you’re blinded by the headlights of the car coming at you, but that’s part of the Costa Rican driving experience. It’s a little wild, a little chaotic, but somehow, people make it work.
Buckle Up!
Driving in Costa Rica may not be for the faint of heart, but it’s certainly an adventure. Whether you’re navigating the narrow streets of San José or cruising along the coast, keep your eyes open and your wits about you. Who knows—you might just fill out your “Driving in Costa Rica Bingo Card” on your next trip.
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